Use clean, dry straw around actively growing strawberries and under fruit that is beginning to touch the ground. Spread it loosely over exposed soil and leave the centre of each plant open. This keeps fruit away from wet soil and can help retain moisture in the bed. After rain, look for compacted straw and check whether slugs are sheltering beneath it. Winter cover serves a different purpose. Choose it based on dormancy and local weather, then move it away from the crowns as growth resumes.

Choose materials for the fruiting row and the paths

Clean dry straw beneath the fruit

Open a small part of a bundle before you carry it to the bed. Choose dry straw with no mouldy smell or visible weed seeds. Loose stems are easy to tuck under fruit clusters without burying the base of the plant. Old straw that has been soaked in storage may be matted before it ever reaches the row. Try a small quantity and see how it behaves after watering before you cover a long bed.

Look for differences between plants. Leaves already cover much of the soil in an older, dense row, so work under the clusters and between plants where you can reach. A younger bed often has more exposed soil. Keep a gap around the crown rather than filling every hollow. If you cannot see where a young plant's crown should sit, check the planting level in the spring strawberry planting guide first.

Different materials can cover the paths

Straw, bark or wood chips can cover soil in the walking aisle. Keep bulky chips in the path if they get mixed into the growing row or press against developing fruit. Fallen leaves can mat into a sheet after rain. Keep that kind of material away from the crowns. If you are considering a permanent cover with openings for plants, read the guide to growing strawberries on weed-control fabric. Fabric has a different installation process, while loose straw can be lifted and moved during an inspection.

Put straw in place while the plants are growing

Start by hand-pulling weeds without disturbing the crowns. Inspect the soil under the leaves. If it is saturated, wait for excess water to drain and check what caused the problem. If the soil near the roots is dry, water as needed before you spread the straw. A surface layer slows evaporation, but you still need to check whether roots have received water.

  1. Start with a short part of the row where you can see flower stems or fruit clusters bending toward the soil.
  2. Support the cluster with one hand and place loose straw underneath. Leave the stem in its natural position so it does not kink.
  3. Leave the centre of the plant clear for the emerging leaves. Move away loose stems that fall over the crown.
  4. After rain or watering, lift the straw at two points. Check whether water reached the soil and whether the straw has compacted into a wet sheet.

A raised row in sunlight can dry faster than a low row in shade. A section behind a fence can stay damp longer than the rest of the same Ukrainian garden. Add straw where fruit touches the soil and move it away where it remains wet. If you want daughter plants from the runners, clear a small patch of soil or use a separate pot so their young roots can reach a suitable medium.

One useful trial is to cover a short strip beside an uncovered part of the same bed. After rain, compare how much soil splashed onto the fruit, how wet the ground remains, and how easy it is to lift the straw and inspect the plants. Compare areas with similar light and irrigation. Then extend the layer, thin it out or move it where there is a clear need. A small patch is easier to adjust while the material is still clean.

After rain, check slugs, fruit and soil moisture

Lift a corner at the edge and look under the straw where the leaves shade it. A rough hole in a strawberry can have more than one cause. Look for a shiny trail and inspect in the evening or early morning when slugs are easier to see. Remove spoiled berries from the ground and take away wet clumps that provide shelter. Check the damp areas more frequently during a rainy spell.

Check whether irrigation reaches the soil beneath the layer at both the head and the end of a drip line. If the first part of the row is wet and the far end is dry, look at the emitters and where the water is going. If the soil is wet throughout, allow it to drain before watering again. Dry straw on top is a poor guide to the amount of water reaching strawberry roots.

Use different rules for winter cover

Reassess the bed in autumn once active growth has finished. In a garden with sustained cold and unreliable snow cover, loose, dry straw may help protect dormant plants. Where winter brings frequent rain and thaws, a wet layer over crowns can encourage rot. Check local conditions, drainage and cultivar hardiness. Avoid covering plants that are still growing simply because it is a certain date.

In spring, pull the cover away from the crowns as severe cold becomes less likely and growth resumes. Dry straw can be moved into an aisle. If the forecast calls for a brief frost while the plants are in flower, consider a temporary cover above the plants that you can remove without damaging the stems. Leave room to check the plants when the frost passes.

Fertilizer for strawberries with a confirmed nutrient need

Complex fertilizer fruit crops granular

Complex fertilizer fruit crops granular

Straw helps manage the soil surface. Assess the plant's nutrition separately. If a soil test and the condition of established strawberries point to a need that matches this granular compound, use the strawberry-specific directions based on bed area.

The product page lists 3 kg and 4 kg packs. Measure the strawberry bed, account for previous applications, and choose a pack using the full strawberry directions.

Plan your growing area in My Garden

Frequently asked questions

Measure the length where fruit touches the soil and the width of the exposed strip. Spread a little straw in a trial section and see how it settles after watering. Then estimate the rest. An aisle and a fruiting row may need different amounts.