[Fruit garden](https://dunger.ua/en/blog/categories/fruit-garden) # Pruning apricot trees in spring: crown, fruiting wood and weather Published 2 hours ago Updated 2 hours ago To read 7 min Assess young and bearing apricot trees, choose suitable dry conditions and preserve useful fruiting wood before making spring cuts. Start spring apricot pruning by assessing the tree's age, existing shape, winter damage and the weather. A young tree needs a framework; a bearing tree first needs a decision about which branches are actually damaged or obstructive. Do not transfer an apple tree's winter routine automatically. Stone fruit wounds require attention to dry conditions and infection risk, and the main thinning of an established apricot may be better arranged after fruiting. ## Inspect before making the first cut Look from several directions and identify the training system already in place. An open-centred tree, a tree with a leader and a trained tree against a support require different choices. Do not remove the central branch simply because a photograph shows that operation. For a young plant, establish its cultivar, rootstock and nursery guidance. These details help you choose a structure that you can maintain as the tree grows. Separate useful living branches from broken, dead or suspicious wood. After a difficult winter, the absence of leaves on one particular day is not enough to judge every branch. Unclear damage boundaries need further assessment or advice. Cutting the entire tree back hard is not a reliable way to discover what survived. Decide the purpose of each proposed cut before removing wood that you cannot put back. ## Choosing a suitable weather window in Ukraine One date cannot cover every garden. A southern slope, a cold hollow and a wet site can develop differently during spring. Check the tree's actual stage, the risk of severe cold and the rain forecast. Avoid routine pruning during rain or just before a prolonged wet spell. A dry day matters alongside the following forecast, rather than being a brief opportunity between showers that must be used. Spring training of a young apricot does not make heavy spring pruning compulsory for every established tree. Consider arranging major work on a bearing tree after harvest in suitable dry weather. A broken branch threatening people is a separate urgent problem. The difficulty and safety of the job determine whether a professional is needed. The name of the seasonal task does not make unsafe access acceptable. ### Prepare a short work plan - Establish age, training system and previous pruning. - Inspect scaffold branches, unions and fruiting wood. - Check the forecast and safe access. - Select sharp tools suited to the work. - Separate necessary cuts from changes that can wait. ## Young trees: develop the future framework The early objective is a set of well-positioned main branches, rather than a miniature mature tree as quickly as possible. Compare their directions and whether several arise at one crowded point. Preserve suitable branches that fit the selected training system. Cutting every tip to the same height without assessment does not establish a sound framework and can encourage unwanted density instead of solving the original problem. Some training decisions can be addressed through branch positioning as well as cutting. Check supports and ties so they do not constrict bark. Compare the plant with its own training plan, rather than a tree of a different age or rootstock. If the nursery has already started its framework, ask how to continue it before changing the entire structure after purchase. Maintaining a coherent plan is easier than repeatedly reversing it. ## Bearing trees: preserve useful fruiting wood Apricots bear on one-year shoots and on short fruiting structures carried on older wood. Not every short twig is surplus. Identify useful spurs and the newer growth needed for gradual renewal before thinning. Avoid borrowing a peach routine without checking the different role of its annual wood. Uniform shortening across the crown can remove valuable fruiting potential while leaving the actual crowding unresolved. Look for particular crossing, rubbing or inward congestion that conflicts with the established framework. Where two branches compete for the same space, decide which should remain. The aim is not an empty crown with perfect symmetry. An old neglected tree needs a separate plan for gradual change. Numerous large cuts in one session create a different situation from ordinary maintenance and deserve an assessment of the whole tree. ## Thinning and shortening are different operations A thinning cut removes an unwanted branch at its origin. A heading cut leaves part of a shoot and influences buds below the cut. Trimming a branch tip is therefore not a substitute for removing a branch that should not occupy that space. Where the objective is less congestion, many shortened tips may encourage the opposite result. Select the cut after defining its purpose, rather than choosing whichever motion is easiest. Preserve the collar at the base when removing a branch; avoid cutting flush against the trunk or leaving a long stub. If the boundary between branch and supporting stem is unclear, stop and examine it from another direction. Heavy branches require staged weight removal to prevent bark stripping. Work involving substantial branches high in the crown is best assessed and carried out by a properly equipped professional. ## Tools and the limits of working yourself Secateurs, loppers and pruning saws perform different tasks. Do not force an unsuitable tool through a branch it cannot cut cleanly. Aim for an even cut without crushing wood or tearing bark. Check sharpness, condition and access before starting. Eye and hand protection and a clear landing area matter alongside understanding the training system. Stop when safe positioning requires a different arrangement or additional equipment. Do not work near electrical wires or handle a heavy saw above yourself from an unstable ladder. A split union, cavity or hanging branch needs a safety assessment. A photograph of a professional technique does not establish that it is appropriate for your situation. For advice, photograph the entire tree as well as the problem area. A close view of a cut does not show the weight or structural role of the branch. ## Check growing conditions before adding fertilizer Feeding is not an automatic payment for every branch removed. Weak growth may involve roots, water or the tree's condition, and extra fertilizer does not identify the cause. Account for previous applications and [soil assessment before feeding](https://dunger.ua/en/blog/soil-assessment-before-fertilizing). Pruning and nutrition serve different purposes. A larger dose neither seals a cut nor restores fruiting wood that has been removed. Plan mixed-orchard tasks separately. [plum pruning](https://dunger.ua/en/blog/pruning-plum-trees) and sweet cherry pruning also depend on fruiting wood and the particular crown. Do not assign every stone fruit the same number of cuts. Inspect each tree, establish the tools or help required, then organize the work around suitable conditions. Keep photographs before and after the work and your own list of removed branches. At the next inspection, these help identify unresolved crossing and changes already made. Do not continue cutting simply because there are few branches on the ground. ## Fruit-tree fertilizer selected by the applicable group  ### [Complex fertilizer fruit crops granular](https://dunger.ua/en/mineral-fertilizers/small-packaging/for-garden-plants/complex-fertilizer-fruit-crops) This granular complex has separate rows for different fruit-tree sizes. Select the relevant group for your apricot, considering its condition and previous applications. It is not a special recovery programme after pruning. The 3 kg bag and 4 kg container hold granules; kilograms indicate product weight. The fertilizer is intended for feeding both new plantings and existing ones. Apply evenly in loose areas before planting; mix with loosened soil or scatter around already planted plants. Small fruit trees to the root zone: **80-100 gr per plant** Medium and large fruit (into the root zone): **150-250 ar per plant** Prepare tree numbers and sizes, then check the chosen pack and purchase terms on the product page. Compare products in the [garden plant catalogue](https://dunger.ua/en/mineral-fertilizers/small-packaging/for-garden-plants). Use this complex’s own method and applicable rate rather than adding products together without assessment. [Plan your growing zone and purchases in My Garden](https://dunger.ua/en/my-garden) ## Frequently asked questions ### Do not transfer the routine automatically. Apricots require consideration of stone fruit wounds and infection risks. Relate spring work to the tree's condition and dry weather. For an established bearing tree, the main thinning may be more appropriate after harvest rather than during the same session as winter apple pruning. ### ### ### Share this article ## Related Posts  [Fruit garden](https://dunger.ua/en/blog/categories/fruit-garden) ### Growing grapevines from cuttings: rooting and young plant care Choose suitable mature canes, store cuttings, provide a rooting medium and grow on a young grapevine without confusing leaves with roots. 1 hour ago • 7  [Fruit garden](https://dunger.ua/en/blog/categories/fruit-garden) ### Pruning plum trees: crown shape, fruiting wood and timing Choose plum pruning for the tree’s form, age and condition while retaining fruiting wood and considering weather. 15 hours ago • 7  [Fruit garden](https://dunger.ua/en/blog/categories/fruit-garden) ### Pruning grapevines in autumn: cane maturity and preparing the vine Select grape canes in autumn by cultivar, training, growth completion and winter protection, separating preparation from final bud load and feeding. 20 hours ago • 7 Order & Inquiry ## Get in touch  Order mineral and organo-mineral fertilizers directly from the manufacturer. 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